Sunday, June 27, 2010
Turkey was wonderful. Istanbul is a fascinating, weaving both modern and ancient cultures together in a wonderful fashion. It is also a very crowded city, with over 11 million people.
When we started out on June 13, we still hadn't firmed up all our travel plans, so at times it seemed like we were on the Amazing Race, trying to figure out how to get from one place to another within a certain amount of time. But in the end everything worked out and we got where we wanted to go. We took a marchutny from Gyrumi into Georgia, where we found a taxi that would take us across the border into Turkey. The hostel we planned on staying at in Kars, Turkey, was under renovation, so we had to find another one, which we did. We then flew to Istanbul Monday morning.
I'm glad we did so much travel by land, because the landscape in this part of the world is beautiful. Whereas parts of Armenia are mountainous, but rocky, and other parts are treeless, Georgia has a lot of fir trees and gentle hills and mountains. In Turkey we drove over and around mountains that are beautiful and still had snow on the tops.
One of the things that struck me once we were in Tureky was the presence of mosques in all the towns and villages. You could see the minarettes sticking up above all the other buildings. It reminded me of driving through New England, where each little town has a church in the town center and you can see the spire from the highway. The other striking thing about Turkey is the color of the houses and apartment buildings. Whereas in Armenia everything is cement grey, in Turkey there are pinks, blues, yellows, greens, and oranges. It was joyful looking and not depressing.
We passed some villages in Turkey where the houses had grass growing on their roofs. I imagine it helps to keep them cool in the summer and warm in winter. It just looks funny to see them cutting the grass on the roof.
The hostel we stayed at in Istanbul was located near most of the major tourist attractions: the Blue Mosque (so named for the thousands of blue tiles in the interior), the Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace/Museum, Grand Bazaar, and lots more.
On Tuesday we went to the Grand Bazaar first thing in the morning. This is a huge shopping mecca that seems to go on for miles. It reminded me of a very upscale flea market, with stall after stall of clothes, jewelry, crafts, etc. You could spend days in it and still not see it all.
We wanted to go to the Topkapi Museum, but it's closed on Tuesdays so we went to the Hagia Sophia instead. This was originally a cathedral, but was then converted into a mosque and now is just a museum. But it was absolutely maagniicent. The high domed ceilings, with frescoes, or what's left of them, all around; over-sized pictures of how the art work used to look; and of course they have a minbar (where the Imam prays) and stained glass windows which now reflect Moselm tenants. It's really amazing the sense of history present in buildings like that, as well as a sense of peace.
We met another PCV and her mother and aunt for dinner that night. Istanbul is full of restaurants that have rooftop seating, with spectacular views of the city. We tried a different one every night.
On Wednesday we went to the Spice Bazaar, another interesting experience. There were a lot of spice and tea booths, as well as rugs, jewelry and clothes. I bought a green and lemon tea mix and a chicken spice, both of which I look forward to using when I get back to my house. It was interesting to haggle with them, which they expect, as well as to just smell all the different aromas. Right near this was the New Mosque, so named because it's just 800 years old. We had to take off our shoes and put on shawls to cover our heads in order to go in. When we wnet in it was during the noon prayer time, and they have a section just for visitors, so we were able to stay and watch. I was enthralled by how much ritual there is and how everyone moved as one.
After lunch we went to the Topkapi Museum. This is a huge place that has sultans' clothes displayed, with explanations as to when they were worn, how it was made and for who; as well as jewels and swords. In one room they had a display of Japanese art. Just walking around and going into the rooms and buildings gave us a sense of the granduer of it all. It was definitely a different time. We spent about 3 1/2 hours there and still didn't see it all.
On Thursday we firmed up our plans for getting to Selcuk. We had wanted to go by ferry and train, but they were both booked, so we went to Plan B and booked an overnight bus for Friday night. We then went through the Blue Mosque. The courtyard of this is resplendent with flowers: impatiens, begonias, roses. We again had to take off our shoes and put on scarfs before entering the mosque. We had met a man outside who became our guide and told us all about the mosque. He really was very helpful and helped us appreciate it much more. For instance he showed us a special place off to one side in the front that is reserved for dignitaries.
After taking us through the mosque he invited us for some apple tea at his shop. He and his nephew run a rug shop, of which there are probably a few hundred in Istanbul. While we drank the tea the nephew gave us a history lesson of the carpets and kilims, ,while spreading out before us a magnificent display of both. I found out that kilims are handmade of cotton, while carpets are handmade of wool or silk or a combination of both. I bought 2 small kilims, which I'll probably use as wall hangings.
That afternoon, Shannon and I took off for a walk through the non-tourist area. We wanted to get to the water, which we eventually did. However, before that we walked down some very interesting streets, which I'm sure most touists never see. They were narrow, winding alleys, with narrow tall houses/apartments. Yet still they were colorful and not as depressing as in Armenia. Kids were playing in the street, mothers were gathered on stoops or talking to one another through windows, and toddlers sat on windowsills protected by the guard rails. Very homey scenes indeed!
After much wandering we finally made our way to the road that runs along the shore. It was delightful and refreshing to walk along the water. We could see a whole bunch of freighters out at sea, as well as some sail boats and cruise ships. There were men and boys (no females) swimming. The boys had strung together empty water bottles, tied them around their waists or upper arms, and used the as life preservers. Very resourceful.
Friday was a very relaxing day, with no real sightseeing on our part. Shannon and I again set out on a walk. At one point Shannon went to use a portajohn by the boatyard. I got interested in watching the men haul out a boat and others were building wood boats and just lost track of time. It seems that Shannon had gotten locked in the portajohn and was yelling for me to get her out. The wind was blowing the wrong way so I couldn't hear her. Luckily some men on one of the boats finally heard her and let her out. I bought her a beer after that as a way of making up for it.
The overnight bus ride to Selcuk wasn't too bad. At one point we took a short ferry ride. It was very reminiscent of the Port Jeff ferry: cars and trucks lined up waiting to be loaded on. We were able to get off the bus and walk around for a bit and it was a clear, calm night. I forgot how much I miss being on the water.
The hostel we stayed at in Selcuk was absolute fantastic. It's called Atilla's Getaway. Atilla, the owner, is an Aussie, so there were lots of Aussie's staying there. There was a swimming pool, an outdoor bar, a pool table, and lots of lounge chairs. It was a wonderful place to end our vacation: very relaxing. If we had gone there first, I don't think I would have left to see Istanbul.
We went into Ephesus Sunday morning. I didn't realize how big Ephesus was, and how important it was at the time. It was amazing to think that we were walking down roads that Hadrian and Cleopatra walked on; that we were sitting in an ampitheater where Paul spoke and gladiators fought. They had audiotapes to help understand what all the buildings were and how the city had developed and the importance it was. We took about 3 hours going through it. That afternoon and most of the next two days were spent by the pool.
Monday night we took an overnight bus back to Istanbul and then boarded a bus for Tbilisi, Georgia and then a marchutney for Yerevan, Armenia. In all it was about 48 hours on buses. But the countryside was beautiful and we road along the Black Sea for a while. I'm glad we traveled the way we did, it added adventure to the trip.
While I definitely enjoyed the trip, it was good to come back to Armenia, to come back home (at least home for another year).
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Friday, June 11, 2010
Saturday, June 12
I've been with the new trainees for this past week and it's nice to have this chance to get to know them. There are 58 of them spread out over 7 villages, mostly sorted according to the work they will be doing here. While I met with all of them on Wednesday for one session, I met with 4 of the villages on Thursday, two at a time. It's a bit different being the trainer rather than the trainee and I'm pleased with how much input into their training we've actually been allowed to give. But, as my program manager said, we're the ones in the field and we know what the new people really need to learn. I can really identify with them during this stage of their training: trying to acclimate to a new culture, living with a new family, learning a new language and learning about how to do their job in a different culture. But, as I keep telling them, it's worth all the hard work and frustrations.
The Peace Corps rents out a few apartments in Charentsavan, the main town which the villages surround. I stayed in one of them this past week, which was nice and I had the place to myself. The other volunteers working this week were all young men, who stayed at one of the other places. On Thursday night, instead of going out to eat, we met at their place and Bryan cooked for us. It was fun just sitting around and sharing some of our experiences during this past year and playing some games.
Tomorrow I'm off to Turkey, which I'm really excited about and looking forward to. We've been planning this for a few months, but typical Peace Corps style, our travel plans are still a bit up in the air with some gaps in getting from one place to another. I know it'll all work out and I'm really not worried about it. There are 4 of us going, 3 of us older and one of the tweeners, a 30+ volunteer. It should be fun. It seems odd to me that here I am in the Peace Corps and yet I get to travel to some amazing places.
I've been with the new trainees for this past week and it's nice to have this chance to get to know them. There are 58 of them spread out over 7 villages, mostly sorted according to the work they will be doing here. While I met with all of them on Wednesday for one session, I met with 4 of the villages on Thursday, two at a time. It's a bit different being the trainer rather than the trainee and I'm pleased with how much input into their training we've actually been allowed to give. But, as my program manager said, we're the ones in the field and we know what the new people really need to learn. I can really identify with them during this stage of their training: trying to acclimate to a new culture, living with a new family, learning a new language and learning about how to do their job in a different culture. But, as I keep telling them, it's worth all the hard work and frustrations.
The Peace Corps rents out a few apartments in Charentsavan, the main town which the villages surround. I stayed in one of them this past week, which was nice and I had the place to myself. The other volunteers working this week were all young men, who stayed at one of the other places. On Thursday night, instead of going out to eat, we met at their place and Bryan cooked for us. It was fun just sitting around and sharing some of our experiences during this past year and playing some games.
Tomorrow I'm off to Turkey, which I'm really excited about and looking forward to. We've been planning this for a few months, but typical Peace Corps style, our travel plans are still a bit up in the air with some gaps in getting from one place to another. I know it'll all work out and I'm really not worried about it. There are 4 of us going, 3 of us older and one of the tweeners, a 30+ volunteer. It should be fun. It seems odd to me that here I am in the Peace Corps and yet I get to travel to some amazing places.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
June 2, 2010
It’s hard to believe that I’ve already been in Armenia for a year! This past weekend the new group of volunteers arrived. I went up on Friday to stay with my host family from last summer in Karashamb. They are such a wonderful family and they are getting a volunteer again this year. John, the son and father of the two young children, has been working in Russia since February. There is no work in or near Karashamb so he was offered this job through a friend of his. The house definitely has a different feeling to it without him. John is a fun-loving guy and loved to have all the other volunteers over. They wanted me to stay the whole weekend, but I had made arrangements to stay with another volunteer in Hrazdan for Saturday and Sunday nights. And I knew they would be busy getting things ready for their new volunteer. But it was nice to be back in that village and there were several other volunteers also staying with their host families.
The new trainees had arrived early Saturday morning and went right to where they were staying until Tuesday. They were all a bit tired, but we had a meet and greet in Bjini, a nearby village, at 3:30. There are 58 in this new group, ranging in age from 20 to 75. We kept the meet and greet short so we just had time to say hello and maybe talk to 2 or 3. We were supposed to meet them at the church in Bjini, but there was a wedding there so we went to a park, which probably turned out better. I remember our meet and greet from last year as if it were yesterday. It will be strange, but nice, to be the “seasoned” group here in Armenia.
The welcoming committee had arranged for a short gathering of the over 50 trainees and some of us for Sunday night. Five of us went to meet with them and it was nice to have a chance to get to know them. They asked us questions about how it is to be an older volunteer and what were our challenges. I just told them to make sure they mingle with the younger volunteers and not segregate themselves. The younger volunteers have a lot to teach us and when they feel comfortable with us, they also feel comfortable coming to us for advice. One of the most important parts of my service has been being with the younger volunteers. They asked us to come back for Monday night and so 3 of us did that.
On Monday I moved from Hrazdan to Charentsavan, the town where the training staff sets up offices and where the trainees come for their central days. The PC has rented a few apartments for PCVs, like myself, who will be helping out with the training. Danya was also staying there, so we went out for a nice supper and then went to the apartment. Danya decided to take a shower, since she doesn’t have one in her house. However, we couldn’t get the hot water to work in the bathroom, only in the kitchen. So she decided to use a pail to put hot water into a larger pail and use that in the tub. She filled the smaller pail and went to pour the water into the other pail, only to find out that the small pail had a hole in the side, near the bottom. And since the larger pail was on the other side of the kitchen, there was a trial of water across the kitchen floor. Then she proceeded to put more hot water into the pail with the hole. All this only to discover that the hot water was then working in the bathroom. It’s going to be an interesting summer.
Late Tuesday morning I got a ride back into Yerevan to the PC offices. I was surprised to find no other PCV in the IRC, so I was able to get some work done on the computer there. Brent, another PCV, soon arrived and so after a while we decided to get some lunch. I spent the rest of the afternoon and part of the evening with this incredible young man. Brent is in the business sector and works at World Vision, an NGO that’s very active throughout Armenia. A few months ago he grought a group of young people to Kapan (ages 14 and 15) who led a workshop on AIDS. Before coming to PC, he had twice spent time in India at Mother Teresa’s hospital, he worked for a refugee resettlement program in Texas, he had spent 2 and ½ months in New Zealand as an intern, and he’s been to other places doing volunteer work. He cares deeply about people and being able to help them make a better life for themselves. All this and he’s only in his mid-twenties! We sat at two different outdoor cafes and talked about PC, our first year here and theology. And he enjoys having a good time and acting like a kid.
Tuesday was Children’s Day in Armenia. Yerevan had a lot of activities going on in conjunction with this. There were families walking about enjoying the beautiful weather and the carnival atmosphere. As Brent and I walked around he was given a balloon by a batman character. We were soon joined by another PCV who remarked that he looked like a big kid – sandals, rolled-up jeans, and a balloon, sort of Huck Finnish.
It’s people like Brent, and the Peace Corps is full of them, that really give me hope for the future. This is why I have so enjoyed getting to know these young people.
I finally returned to my house Wednesday afternoon. While it will be a short stay, I leave again for Charentsavan next Tuesday, it just feels so good to be home.
It’s hard to believe that I’ve already been in Armenia for a year! This past weekend the new group of volunteers arrived. I went up on Friday to stay with my host family from last summer in Karashamb. They are such a wonderful family and they are getting a volunteer again this year. John, the son and father of the two young children, has been working in Russia since February. There is no work in or near Karashamb so he was offered this job through a friend of his. The house definitely has a different feeling to it without him. John is a fun-loving guy and loved to have all the other volunteers over. They wanted me to stay the whole weekend, but I had made arrangements to stay with another volunteer in Hrazdan for Saturday and Sunday nights. And I knew they would be busy getting things ready for their new volunteer. But it was nice to be back in that village and there were several other volunteers also staying with their host families.
The new trainees had arrived early Saturday morning and went right to where they were staying until Tuesday. They were all a bit tired, but we had a meet and greet in Bjini, a nearby village, at 3:30. There are 58 in this new group, ranging in age from 20 to 75. We kept the meet and greet short so we just had time to say hello and maybe talk to 2 or 3. We were supposed to meet them at the church in Bjini, but there was a wedding there so we went to a park, which probably turned out better. I remember our meet and greet from last year as if it were yesterday. It will be strange, but nice, to be the “seasoned” group here in Armenia.
The welcoming committee had arranged for a short gathering of the over 50 trainees and some of us for Sunday night. Five of us went to meet with them and it was nice to have a chance to get to know them. They asked us questions about how it is to be an older volunteer and what were our challenges. I just told them to make sure they mingle with the younger volunteers and not segregate themselves. The younger volunteers have a lot to teach us and when they feel comfortable with us, they also feel comfortable coming to us for advice. One of the most important parts of my service has been being with the younger volunteers. They asked us to come back for Monday night and so 3 of us did that.
On Monday I moved from Hrazdan to Charentsavan, the town where the training staff sets up offices and where the trainees come for their central days. The PC has rented a few apartments for PCVs, like myself, who will be helping out with the training. Danya was also staying there, so we went out for a nice supper and then went to the apartment. Danya decided to take a shower, since she doesn’t have one in her house. However, we couldn’t get the hot water to work in the bathroom, only in the kitchen. So she decided to use a pail to put hot water into a larger pail and use that in the tub. She filled the smaller pail and went to pour the water into the other pail, only to find out that the small pail had a hole in the side, near the bottom. And since the larger pail was on the other side of the kitchen, there was a trial of water across the kitchen floor. Then she proceeded to put more hot water into the pail with the hole. All this only to discover that the hot water was then working in the bathroom. It’s going to be an interesting summer.
Late Tuesday morning I got a ride back into Yerevan to the PC offices. I was surprised to find no other PCV in the IRC, so I was able to get some work done on the computer there. Brent, another PCV, soon arrived and so after a while we decided to get some lunch. I spent the rest of the afternoon and part of the evening with this incredible young man. Brent is in the business sector and works at World Vision, an NGO that’s very active throughout Armenia. A few months ago he grought a group of young people to Kapan (ages 14 and 15) who led a workshop on AIDS. Before coming to PC, he had twice spent time in India at Mother Teresa’s hospital, he worked for a refugee resettlement program in Texas, he had spent 2 and ½ months in New Zealand as an intern, and he’s been to other places doing volunteer work. He cares deeply about people and being able to help them make a better life for themselves. All this and he’s only in his mid-twenties! We sat at two different outdoor cafes and talked about PC, our first year here and theology. And he enjoys having a good time and acting like a kid.
Tuesday was Children’s Day in Armenia. Yerevan had a lot of activities going on in conjunction with this. There were families walking about enjoying the beautiful weather and the carnival atmosphere. As Brent and I walked around he was given a balloon by a batman character. We were soon joined by another PCV who remarked that he looked like a big kid – sandals, rolled-up jeans, and a balloon, sort of Huck Finnish.
It’s people like Brent, and the Peace Corps is full of them, that really give me hope for the future. This is why I have so enjoyed getting to know these young people.
I finally returned to my house Wednesday afternoon. While it will be a short stay, I leave again for Charentsavan next Tuesday, it just feels so good to be home.
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